Wednesday, August 8, 2012

Chardonnay

Crisp, fruity, lean style chardonnay or oaky, buttery style chardonnay? What’s your preference? Some would say they love a glass of “ California Chardonnay” that is big, expressive, has lots of vanilla, butter and oak. Others prefer a Frenc...
h style Chardonnay with fruit characteristics leaning toward the crisp fruitiness of apples, pears and lemon.

During the 1980’s the buttery, oaky style Chardonnay was at its peak of popularity. Partially due to the advent of the “Spago” style menu, with choices likes Chinese chicken salad, breast of chicken salad and the pasta craze; the American palate developed a liking for the smoothness of Chardonnay with the butteriness of a pasta or chicken dish. During this time Oaky, buttery Chardonnay also became a popular cocktail substitute for women at bars. Soon this oaky, buttery Chardonnay hype created a negative conotation for this type of wine.

Depending on the type of oak the wine was aged in will determine the specific oak characteristics. French oak adds smoke, caramel, vanilla or butterscotch ; while American oak creates dill and coconut tastes. The problem with oaky Chardonnay and the emergence of phrases like ‘ ABC’ or ‘ Anything But Chardonnay’ by restauranteurs was that winemakers began over oaking chardonnay. This grew as a phenomenon because winemakers were attempting to emulate the legendary white Burgundies. In Burgundy, barrel fermentation and aging are standard practices for the finest wines. But the weather is very cool there, and Chardonnay grapes struggle to fully ripen, producing fruit with low sugar levels and high acidity. This fruit can stand up to the use of oak barrels, absorbing subtle complexity rather than harsh woodiness. In warmer regions, such as California, the fruit produced is riper with high sugars and lower acidity. If this kind of fruit is subjected to intense oak regimen, it often becomes woody and the lush fruit character of Chardonnay is overwhelmed.

Butter is often ascribed to oak. This is a common misconception. A process called malolactic fermentation is used to convert the tartness found naturally in grape skins into lactic acid which creates a buttery, creamy feeling and taste and adds roundness to the wine. A Chardonnay can be buttery without being oaky.

Many claim that the natural varietal taste and smell of Chardonnay is often disguised by the dominating winemaking signatures. Chardonnay’s primary fruit characteristics lean toward crisp, fruitiness of apples and pears but the varietals body is capable of supporting characteristics such as oak, butter and vanilla. In an effort to reproduce the great whites of Burgundy, Chardonnay has often been subjected to excessive oak fermentation and aging, These wines lose their varietal and regional signatures.

Not to say that french, more acidic, lean style chardonnay is better than it’s oaky, buttery counterpart. It’s simply a matter of taste.

Deerfield Ranch Chardonnay is more Burgundian in style. We focus less on oak and butter and more on the subtle nuances of flavor from the fruit, plus balanced acidity and layered complexity.

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